Thursday, March 1, 2012


I look forward to London's Fashion Week more than most. "It" evidently belongs to the Brits this Fall. As I have yet to see Milan and Paris, I guess giving it to London is a little forward, but in the world of fashion, nothing propels individual style more than being a little forward.

Stella, Christopher Kane, Peter Pilotto, Mary Katrantzou (Fashion's Darling) and Acne. These are the leaders. Follow em'.

Kane felt wicked this time around. This collection wasn't a long-sleeved version of his Lisa Frank puffy sticker S/S 12' collection. Those floral dresses in florescent purple and primary red are see-through and sinister. It's a nice visual break from fashion's recent beloved, the romantic polished pastel. Plus, the combination of certain primary colors and black can sometimes feel a bit harsh, but with Kane's precision and acute balance and minimal weaving, these are examples of perfectly paired combinations for a pointedly 'woven' Fall wardrobe. You know I'll take any opportunity to pun. 

Peter Pilotto utilized a variation on their Spring neckline for Fall by adding texture and--somehow--more sex appeal in the form of velvet sleeves. They also ran with peplum and somehow fused the trend of the season year with quilted puffer jackets. My guess is they concluded velvet and collarbones read as "too sexy" and most likely "cold," so they added the clincher, and the cinch-er. Cinched-puffer-jackets also known as the-semi-attractive-functional-jacket. Now, time for the shoes. Ankle straps and pointed toes. It's the bedazzled version of pointe shoes. You can count on it or use a count of eight, this sport/dance-inspired trend has morphed and matured.

The reigning queen of digital prints has done it yet again. I'm impressed by this Fall's collection, while still basking in the oceanic-inspired and stacked floral prints of yesteryears S/S 12' collection. With Fall's structured funnel sleeves and pencil print ruffles that resemble waves of tree fungus; one can only dream of wearing "Ponies, spoons and bow ties, oh my." As it happens, the clothing in this collection is a tailored step up from last Spring--which left little below the waist to the imagination. Bringing up another rule of eternal style--when looking to buy a piece off the runway, make sure it covers your, ahem, pieces.

Velvet is a definitive Fall trend. For Johannson, silhouettes (cinched waists and oversize sleeves), dresses worn over sweaters and colors for the cult collection were inspired by three people--the photographer André Kertész, the erotic artist Hans Bellmer, and the painter Hanneline Røgeberg. Very minimal, very modern, and most importantly, very Swedish.

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