COMME des GARCONS
I think there is only one designer alive that can make 'cloud throw-up mixed with little bow peep's unders' wearable art. That may sound like an insult, but it is actually a compliment mixed with latent abandonment issues--meaning this. Rei Kawakubo had leaned more towards the mainstream (although still utilizing my favorite Kawakubo characteristics; multiple sleeves and asymmetrical hems) in the last couple years worth of collections--and although I did favor those lines a lot more than other competitive contemporary designers collection's--I secretly have harbored a child-like resentment to the lack of child-like extravagance Rei had been the connoisseur of in seasons past. This Spring it appears Rei has experienced a rejuvenation/rebirth of her proclivity for the ever-impressive avant garde. Spending a moment within the confines of a stark white palette, Rei utilizes texture, structure, and impressive asymmetrical layering techniques; that of which created Rosette-gathered cocoons/veils and the antithesis of the on-trend short (fashion's subtle attempt to fool consumers into thinking they aren't just parading women around in high-waisted underwear and jackets). This collection not only revives the inspiration in those of us who'll always choose three sleeves over two, but also lends a fresh positive connotation to the not-so-positive idea of having one's head in the clouds. Even I don't feel so bad for daydreaming anymore.
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
I LOVE CRAP. I mean c'mon, that's genius. It encapsulates everything I love about this woman and her approach towards style. Yes, she may get a couple stray looks from the folks over at the Bed, Bath, and Beyond, but in the end, who's really in control of what's being looked at? Acutely comical + impressive draping - anything trendy = A RARE FIND INDEED.
YOHJI YAMAMOTO
Completely wearable, and completely cool. I'd totally do those lines. I mean that in a completely structural sense. Or lack thereof. Those boots just look like they'd feel good. No? I love every layer. It's all about having layers this season. But in an uneven sense, to match all the uneven personalities. Including mine.
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
JUNYA WATANABE
I'm beginning to run out of steam here. Okay, obviously I was impressed by the trench and brogue themed party towards the end of the show, but the other looks felt a tad derivative, sheer military and ruffled leather over florals and lace? It felt like Wantanabe's version of feminin et masculine, except, we've already seen it all before. I'll only let this one go because of my affinity for what I think were the true focus of the show, the many reinterpretations of the trench and the shoes. Oh, the shoes.
HAIDER ACKERMANN
ROCHAS
Rochas is to Mars Attacks as Stepford Wives is to?...Awesome? I can't say enough about this show. It felt like the modern-meets-vintage inspiration I've been looking for--a bit of whimsical creepiness added to a femme fetale foundation.
STELLA McCARTNEY
Appropriate and appreciated. There is nothing more I can say at this moment because I'm officially in love with the suit. It is the epitome of coordinating different prints and patterns in a perfectly minimalist fashion.
It is nothing other than a major inspiration, when you see two genuine individuals from your very own neighborhood, start from scratch, become one of the biggest retailers in fashion (period), make friends and fans out of the uber-cool and bionically talented, and to top it off, have all of these people present to collaborate and support you on one of the biggest days in your climb to the deserved top of fashion mountain, fashion not fascist mountain. Pay attention. With netted straw boaters, bright knits, short suits, a focus on modernizing ski outerwear, and parrots on maxi dresses--one can only say BRAVO, and thank you. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, you both are an inspiration and major addition to the brand spanking, much anticipated, sold-out in every store, fresh-faced, hyper-east-meets-really-west KENZO.
VALENTINO
This Valentino collection has me seeing the future. It is a beautiful future in which many events take place that require me to wear Valentino dresses while barefoot and dancing. I feel that this prophecy is quite telling about the collection. Paired with flat sandals and a more au natural approach to fabric layering than ever before, this is a lace parade that I could definitely spend my pretend inheritance on.
ALEXANDER McQUEEN
I see Sarah Burton has continued with the theme of her last collection--"The Ice Queen." However, it seems that this time around there is a dual focus, one being, a natural progression, and the other, a tribute. This time around the collection looks as if the ice has begun to melt. As if Pangea has completed the ice age leaving a residual body of water, in which all forms of life are beginning to materialize and begging to align. Jellyfish hydro-skeletons cling to her feet while defrosted waves crash around her unpolluted body--all the while pearls, shells, peplum and barnacles (impressively manipulated lace) are her only memories from that of which she came forth. Memories from a noble and nurturing body of water that showed no bounds. All hail McQueen.
LOUIS VUITTON
Marc Jacobs reminds me of Rodarte in the sense that he keeps reinventing his collections (for both his own line and Vuitton) while maintaining the tried and true attributes that made his pieces so damn definitive and desirable in the first place. It is a true talent to not become derivative of--not only other people's creations-- but of your own creations as well. Plus, who else has made a flask for a woman? Especially one that can most likely make a girl develop a habit for utilizing it. That my friend is another talent. Singling out what is or isn't appropriate for a lady, and throwing caution to the wind with authority and alligator skin.
**All Photos and Videos via New York Magazine's blog, The Cut.
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