LONDON CALLING.

I look forward to London's Fashion Week more than most. "It" evidently belongs to the Brits this Fall. As I have yet to see Milan and Paris, I guess giving it to London is a little forward, but in the world of fashion, nothing propels individual style more than being a little forward.

Stella, Christopher Kane, Peter Pilotto, Mary Katrantzou (Fashion's Darling) and Acne. These are the leaders. Follow em'.

CHRISTOPHER KANE

Kane felt wicked this time around. This collection wasn't a long-sleeved version of his Lisa Frank puffy sticker S/S 12' collection. Those floral dresses in florescent purple and primary red are see-through and sinister. It's a nice visual break from fashion's recent beloved, the romantic polished pastel. Plus, the combination of certain primary colors and black can sometimes feel a bit harsh, but with Kane's precision and acute balance and minimal weaving, these are examples of perfectly paired combinations for a pointedly 'woven' Fall wardrobe. You know I'll take any opportunity to pun. 

PETER PILOTTO

Peter Pilotto utilized a variation on their Spring neckline for Fall by adding texture and--somehow--more sex appeal in the form of velvet sleeves. They also ran with peplum and somehow fused the trend of the season year with quilted puffer jackets. My guess is they concluded velvet and collarbones read as "too sexy" and most likely "cold," so they added the clincher, and the cinch-er. Cinched-puffer-jackets also known as the-semi-attractive-functional-jacket. Now, time for the shoes. Ankle straps and pointed toes. It's the bedazzled version of pointe shoes. You can count on it or use a count of eight, this sport/dance-inspired trend has morphed and matured.

MARY KATRANTZOU

The reigning queen of digital prints has done it yet again. I'm impressed by this Fall's collection, while still basking in the oceanic-inspired and stacked floral prints of yesteryears S/S 12' collection. With Fall's structured funnel sleeves and pencil print ruffles that resemble waves of tree fungus; one can only dream of wearing "Ponies, spoons and bow ties, oh my." As it happens, the clothing in this collection is a tailored step up from last Spring--which left little below the waist to the imagination. Bringing up another rule of eternal style--when looking to buy a piece off the runway, make sure it covers your, ahem, pieces.

ACNE

Velvet is a definitive Fall trend. For Johannson, silhouettes (cinched waists and oversize sleeves), dresses worn over sweaters and colors for the cult collection were inspired by three people--the photographer André Kertész, the erotic artist Hans Bellmer, and the painter Hanneline Røgeberg. Very minimal, very modern, and most importantly, very Swedish.

I SEE "LONDON"...LFW SPRING 2012 GANAS FAVORITES.

So here I go. The forecast of future Spring fashions in London are not much different from that of what the oracles predicted in New York. It's that--or--at least the shows I was drawn to in London are aesthetically (contextually or not) similar.

ACNE

 

Acne utilized a continuation of loafers and their tassels. Transporting the oversized tassels to not only their loafers, but to their black leather sandals as well. Loafers always remind me of my father, and of Audrey Horne. Maybe Acne was having a Lynchian love affair while designing the collection's shoes. I happen to love that while Acne did follow trend with the loafers, they tended to stick to a fall-like palette of colors including black, white, mossy greens, a rustic orange, and an all too familiar pink--all of which I'm perfectly fine with.

PETER PILOTTO

I really was drawn to Peter Pilotto this season. His line reminded me of Rodarte and Alexander McQueen this season, in that Pilotto seemed to utilize similarly textured fabric and prints. I love the neckline he created for each dress. That specific cut is always flattering to most any body type, as it shows off a lady's collar bone and shoulders, which rarely gain weight and tend to always be smooth and sleek--much like the silhouette of the afore-posted dresses. Full circle baby.

CHRISTOPHER KANE

 Oh Christopher Kane. I have lusted and lusted after every single collection since the translucent mid-century-inspired gingham print dresses collection (I still have a serious obsession with purchasing each thrift or vintage gingham print piece I see--whether it fits or not). This season I loved the button-downs, the see-through dresses that became like those Lisa Frank sticker books filled with vinyl or puff print stickers of real life illustrations of flowers (dichotomy I know), and lastly, my favorite is the dusty pink thick satin cutout dress with the exaggerated pointy collar--now that is what I call a 70's era collar gone right. 

Till next time...I see Milan, I see France. 


**Photos and Video courtesy of New York Magazine Blog, The Cut